 Ingredients of cosmetic products are listed following International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Incredients (INCI). These INCI names often differ greatly from systematic chemical nomenclature or from more common trivial names:
Alcohol denat - solvent, carrier, astringent.
Alkyl benzoate
Allantoin - stops bleeding of cuts from shaving. Allantoin is a chemical compound with formula C4H6N4O3. It is also called 5-ureidohydantoin or glyoxyldiureide. It is a diureide of glyoxylic acid. Named after the allantois, an amniote embryonic excretory organ in which it concentrates during development in most mammals except higher apes, it is a product of oxidation of uric acid by purine catabolism. After birth, it is the predominant means by which nitrogenous waste is excreted in the urine of these animals. In humans and other higher apes, the metabolic pathway for conversion of uric acid to allantoin has been lost, so the former is excreted. Recombinant rasburicase is sometimes used as a drug to catalyze this metabolic conversion in patients. In fish, allantoin is broken down further (into ammonia) before excretion, but most of the enzymes responsible have been lost in mammals. Allantoin is a major metabolic intermediate in many other organisms including plants and bacteria.
Allantoin is present in botanical extracts of the comfrey plant and Uric acid from cows, most mammals. Chemically synthesized bulk allantoin is natural-identical, safe, non-toxic, compatible with cosmetic raw materials, and meets CTFA and JSCI requirements. Over 10,000 patents reference allantoin. Manufacturers cite several beneficial effects for allantoin as an active ingredient in over-the-counter cosmetics: a moisturizing and keratolytic effect, increasing the water content of the extracellular matrix and enhancing the desquamation of upper layers of dead skin cells, increasing the smoothness of the skin; promotion of cell proliferation and wound healing; and a soothing, anti-irritant, and skin protectant effect by forming complexes with irritant and sensitizing agents. It is frequently present in toothpaste, mouthwash, and other oral hygiene products, in shampoos, lipsticks, anti-acne products, sun care products, and clarifying lotions, various cosmetic lotions and creams, and other cosmetic and pharmaceutical products. Allantoin has not been proved scientifically to reduce the appearance of aging.
Alpha-isomethyl ionone
Aluminium chlorohydrate - antitranspirant. Aluminium chlorohydrate is a group of salts having the general formula AlnCl(3n-m)(OH)m. It is used in deodorants and antiperspirants and as a flocculant in water purification. In water purification, where it is usually called polyaluminium chloride, this compound is preferred in some cases because the pH value can be varied according to the exact values chosen for the subscripts n and m in the pattern formula. Although many variations are used, an especially important combination is Al12Cl12(OH)24. The actual pH correlates to the formula m/(3n).
Aluminium chlorohydrate is best described as an inorganic polymer and as such is difficult to structurally characterise. However, techniques such as Gel permeation chromatography, X-ray crystallography and 27Al-NMR have been used in research by various groups including that of Nazar and Laden to show that the material is based on Al13 units with a Keggin ion structure and that this base unit then undergoes complex transformations to form larger poly-aluminium complexes.
Aluminium chlorohydrate can be commercially manufactured by reacting aluminium with hydrochloric acid. A number of aluminium-containing raw materials can be used, including aluminium metal, alumina trihydrate, aluminium chloride, aluminium sulfate and combinations of these. The products can contain by-product salts, such as sodium/calcium/magnesium chloride or sulfate.
Aqua - water, solvent.
Ascorbyl palmitate
Butane - propellant (pressurized dispenser). Butane, also called n-butane, is the unbranched alkane with four carbon atoms, CH3CH2CH2CH3. Butane is also used as a collective term for n-butane together with its only other isomer, isobutane (also called methylpropane), CH(CH3)3. Butanes are highly flammable, colorless, odorless, easily liquefied gases. The name butane was derived by back-formation from the name of butyric acid.
Butyrospermum parkii - shea butter, vegetable fat made from nuts of african shea tree, moisturizer.
Hydroxyethyl-cellulose - cellulose fibre from wood pulp.
Hydroxypropyl-cellulose - cellulose fibre from wood pulp.
Isobutane - propellant (pressurized dispenser).
Isopentane - propellant (pressurized dispenser). Pentane, also known as amyl hydride or skellysolve A is an alkane hydrocarbon. It is a liquid commodity chemical compound, mainly used as fuel and as a solvent. Molecular structure: The conformation (shape) of pentane is linear, similar to that of butane, but one carbon atom longer.
Propane - propellant (pressurized dispenser). Propane is a three-carbon alkane, normally a gas, but compressible to a liquid that is transportable. It is derived from other petroleum products during oil or natural gas processing. It is commonly used as a fuel for engines, barbecues, and home heating systems. When sold as fuel, it is commonly known as liquified petroleum gas (LPG or LP-gas) which can be a mixture of propane along with small amounts of propylene, butane, and butylene. The odorant ethanethiol is also added so that people can easily smell the gas in case of a leak.
Sodium hydroxide - base. Sodium hydroxide (NaOH), also known as lye, caustic soda and (incorrectly, according to IUPAC nomenclature) as sodium hydrate, is a caustic metallic base. Sodium hydroxide forms a strong alkaline solution when dissolved in a solvent such as water. It is used in many industries, mostly as a strong chemical base in the manufacture of pulp and paper, textiles, drinking water, soaps and detergents and as a drain cleaner. Worldwide production in 1998 was around 45 million tonnes. Sodium hydroxide is the most used base in chemical laboratories.
Pure sodium hydroxide is a white solid; available in pellets, flakes, granules and as a 50% saturated solution. It is deliquescent and readily absorbs carbon dioxide from the air, so it should be stored in an airtight container. It is very soluble in water with liberation of heat. It also dissolves in ethanol and methanol, though it exhibits lower solubility in these solvents than potassium hydroxide. It is insoluble in ether and other non-polar solvents. A sodium hydroxide solution will leave a yellow stain on fabric and paper.
Triethanolamine - base, emulsifier. Triethanolamine, often abbreviated as TEA, is an organic chemical compound which is both a tertiary amine and a tri-alcohol. A tri-alcohol is a molecule with three hydroxyl groups. Like other amines, triethanolamine acts as a weak base due to the lone pair of electrons on the nitrogen atom. This ingredient is used as a pH balancer in cosmetic preparations in a variety of different products - ranging from skin lotion, eye gels, moisturizers, shampoos, shaving foams etc.
As with any amines, it may have the potential to create nitrosamines, but with the low concentrations used in cosmetic products the chances of that happening is very slim and it is further theorized that nitrosamines cannot penetrate the skin. It is listed under Schedule 3, part B of the Chemical Weapons Convention as it can be used in the manufacture nitrogen mustards.
Another common use of TEA is as a complexing agent for aluminium ions in aqueous solutions. This reaction is often used to mask such ions before performing what is called a complexometric titration with another chelating agent such as EDTA (EthylDiamineTetraAcetic acid), which will form stable complexes with most metallic ions.
Triethanolamine (TEA) is also used as organic additive (0.1 wt. %) in the grinding of cement clinker. It is proved to be very effective to facilitate the grinding process by preventing agglomeration and coating of the powder at the surface of balls and mill wall. To what extent could TEA complex heavy metals and radionuclides encapsulated in cement matrix and so could increase their solubility remains an open question.
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